Hazelnuts are such a coveted food that we all show up at the same time to stake our claim. It always feels so tenuous, like it could devolve into bloodsport at any moment, but we all just pick, giving each other the side-eye, in a surreal kind of interspecies armistice. I’m still an underdog, but I manage to sneak off with a basketful most years. Here are a few tricks I’ve learned if you dare enter the arena.


